This is most definitely not one of my typical travel blogs, because it's all about a project and not a trip.
Although some will say "this is quite the trip you are on with this old truck."

The Milkshaker Part 3 - Going and Stopping


Milkshaker Update 23

While waiting for some parts to arrive, I did a little updating on the back end. If you remember the ugly old bumper...

I spent some time cutting/fitting/welding new brackets and put on something just a little more shiny.

I still need to do a little trim work and make a new back step, finish the door wraps, etc, etc, etc...


Milkshaker Update 24

Early on my high priority items were always Going and Stopping, today I put a big dent in the stopping part. Converting a 68 year old drum brake system to disc brakes

Pulling the old drum and hub off was not easy, the old brake pads didn't want to let go, but at least the spindle and the ball bearings were well greased.

Should be all ready to start putting it together, the Performance Online Disc Brake Conversion Kit is designed specifically for the bigger 1 ton trucks with 8 lug setups. What you don't know until it arrives, is just how poorly documented the kit is, in fact I had to email them and request the installation/assembly instructions.

The lack of diagrams and what turns out to be incorrect/incomplete instructions was surprising, and resulted in me having to dis-assemble and re-assemble multiple times. After trying to install the caliper bracket using the instruction image as a guide, I called tech support as there wasn't enough of the right bolts.

"The bracket should be towards the front of the truck"... opposite of what the instructions say "Let me send you some pictures that may help"... received them immediately, and ummm yeah, bracket is upside down from instructions, now I have enough bolts.

This bracket is what the new brake caliper will bolt to, what they don't tell you is that you need to put these little spacers in, and you don't finsd that out uuntil you are almost done installing the rotor and find out the caliper doesn't line up.

The instructions tell you to install the caliper first, but not to take it off again before installing the rotor.Here's where you discover that the caliper doesn't lineup without those spacers...grrrr.

Images of bearing adapter and bearing sleeve, and bearings.

Finally assembled and almost ready for wheels. Now just 3 more to go and some brake plumbing to do.


Milkshaker Update 25

Apparently I jumped the gun on thinking the front disc upgrades were almost done.

Moving on to the drivers side, and go through the new and improved steps based on learnings from the other side. Remove the old Drum brake setup, install the inner race and bearing, but the new rotor on, tighten it all down, and attach the new brake caliper bracket.

Here's where everything went South... if you look at the below pictures you will see a large curved steering arm, it travels right through where the new caliper is supposed to mount. Everything came to a stop as i went back and forth with Performance Online, multiple people, multiple pictures sent, and multiple weeks passed until they finally told me they would make me new brackets and send them out. That started in the beginning of May and it's almost the end of June.


A lot happened in that month and a half period, the weather was cold, wet and lousy, car show season started, we did a bit of traveling, and sadly, we had a death in the family. When the new calipers finally arrived and the weather changed, I was finally motivated to get back at it. A couple days of massive de-greasing/de-dirting and some POR-15 to clean up the front part of the frame.

POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating is a high-tech, high-performance rust preventive coating designed for application directly on stable rust or seasoned metal surfaces. Permanent rust protection with a hammer-tough finish resistant to acids, oils, and repels all fuels.

The new brackets needed a little extra work as some of the bolt holes weren't quite drilled out properly. But, the new brackets fit well, moved the caliper from a 7-8 o'clock position to a 10-11 o'clock position and the steering arm move freely below it.

Next up is changing the rear end with a disc brake system and then some actual brake plumbing.


Milkshaker Update 26

One of the challenges with old cars is finding some of the rare and obscure parts. For the Milkshaker that’s the model # badge that appears in the middle of the grill. Not only is it the lesser desired 1 ton model, but it’s also the lesser known GMC Canada numbering system. I needed a 9430, but was only able to get a 9300… so working with my friend Robert, we made one.

Location of the easier to find 9300 # badge, and what it is supposed to look like.

What I was able to acquire, not quite the 9430 I need, but it gives me structure for at least 3 of the 4 digits.

I measured it all out, and brought it over to my friend Robert.

He was able to create a 3D model of all the segments that make up the badge, then assemble all the 3D elements into a replica of the needed badge. Robert then printed a series of badges using different materials and techniques

In order to paint/prep the plastic you need to wash the pieces, then apply an adhesion promoter before applying a black lacquer paint

I started with two test pieces ready for the chrome treatment.

After a lot of research the best chrome results on 3D printed pieces was using a Nail Polish gel with a chrome powder. The first test and the results look pretty good.

The first full piece had less than satisfactory results, as I think it dried too much and didn’t absorb the powder properly.

I redid the gel coat, this time doing 1 digit at a time and using an UV light to cure the gel the right amount.

Final result with all digits “chromed”

The last step was to paint the inside #’s red to match the original GMC paint scheme. It’s not perfect, but I’m pretty happy to recreate a very rare piece for the Milkshaker.




This page will continue to be updated as the Milkshaker progresses...