JAPAN 2019
To provide a bit of a change from the colder weather we have encountered in the other cities of Japan, I chose to get us flights to the furthest south part of Japan. Okinawa Island is the largest of the Okinawa Islands and the Ryukyu Islands of Japan. It is about 640 kilometres (400 mi) south of the rest of Japan and 500 km (300 mi) north of Taiwan. It's also not too big, so should be easy to explore, Okinawa island is approximately 110 km (70 miles) long, and an average 11km (7 miles) wide.
Okinawa
As soon as we arrived, we started to discover that Okinawa maybe wasn't going to be the easiest location to get around. They have a limousine bus that would take us to our hotel, but it stops running at 6pm. After asking about 3 different Information people, we finally figure out that we can take their new Monorail to the Bus station, and catch a bus from there.
We took the Monorail to the bus station, and the 1st bus drives away, looking at us as we walked up with our luggage. When another bus finally shows up, it's the longest bus ride EVER to Rinken's hotel. The system for payment involves a screen that shows how much it costs as you progress stop to stop. We find out that Okinawa doesn't use the SUICA cards, and we helplessly watched the fare rate slowly go up the whole ride as we only had ¥1590 in coins, and the bus won't take large bills. I am just getting ready to ring the next stop button and call a taxi, when 2 hours after boarding we arrive at the 'American Village' area where our hotel is... the total fee was ¥750 each. ($18 cdn)
Okinawa is a key American Air Force base, and has a fairly large population of American's temporarily assigned to this area, I am pretty sure the American Village area is designed to make them feel at home... in the most common of American tourist trap areas full of souvenir shops, outlet stores, restaurants and tacky loud bars.
Our hotel is across the way from this area, nestled right next to the beach, and our room is down the beach side, so the rowdy bar noises aren't heard from our closed deck doors. Although Rinken's Kitchen was right in our building, we decided to go next door to Red Lobster for dinner. Their food was just like in the US (or Winnipeg), but we didn't have any lobster, cause their tanks looked a little crowded.
The nighttime view from our room, it's almost like Vegas.
February 10
When I wake up and see this weather report for Tokyo, it's pretty nice to open the balcony door and step out into 20° weather (72° F), we chose the right time to head South. Fingers crossed the airports are open when we fly back to Tokyo in a few days.
Just out the front of our hotel is this very nice park and beach area, too bad the weather was a little cloudy, so we couldn't enjoy it as much.
Just along the beach was a nice breakfast cafe with sea views, then we explored the Chatan area and the American Depot shops.
Maybe it's because of all their rules that the beach play area is so empty, or it could be the weather. We were in T-shirts, and all the locals were in jackets.
The American Depot kind of strikes me as what the Okinawans thought an American shopping area should look like.
My favourite discovery for the day was this Old Chevy/Coca Cola themed shop... I may have bought a couple things.
We had had about enough shopping, and decided to have lunch at a true Okinawan traditional restaurant...
After lunch we wandered around some different clothing stores and outlets, and we learned a lot about clothes shopping in Japan. Unless you are mini-me or a short runway model, none of these clothes will fit. The XL and XXL shirts are too tight for me, and what should be a regular size pair of shorts won't fit over your calves. So unless you can find the rare store that carry shirts labeled as 3XL or larger, you are out of luck. Or you can pass this store on your way to the airport when it's too late.
The old Ferris Wheel was not the only part of this area that was looking a little dated.
It's always interesting to see movie posters in foreign countries, even if you can't understand what they are saying.
Our hotel gave us free tickets to the Kalahaai show, it's 4 local girls playing Okinawan songs with traditional Okinawan instruments. The most unique of those instruments being a Sanshin, a 3 string guitar with snake-skin base. It was a very entertaining show as it projected English subtitles to their songs behind them. Turns out our hotel receptionist was part of the group.
Feeling pretty hungry after the show, we tried to go to the local conveyor belt sushi restaurant, but it was lined up out the door and they weren't taking any more names, so ended up at Jetta Burgers for Traditional Japanese Burgers and Tacos.
February 11
Once we discovered that Okinawa didn't have the same type of transportation options (trains) as the rest of Japan, I started looking at other ways to explore more of the Island. Most of the "Explore Tours" go to the Okinawa Aquarium and an underwater viewing place, nahhhh! We didn't want a Japanese Seaworld, especially after their history of dolphin treatment. So we talked to our hotel receptionist and rented a taxi driver for the day. At 9:00 on the dot our driver Yagi was waiting for us in his shiny Toyota Crown.
He didn't speak a lot of English, but with Google Translate and a local Island map, we were able to figure out where we wanted to go.
Our first stop was Shurijo Castle. Shuri is the name of the former capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Shuri Castle served as the administrative center and residence of the Ryukyu kings for several centuries until Okinawa became a Japanese prefecture in 1879. The castle is included as one of the UNESCO World Heritage designated Castles of the Ryukyu Kingdom sites. Shuri Castle was originally built in the late 1300s, and played an integral role in the political unification of the island. Wars and fires destroyed the castle multiple times over the centuries, most recently in the Battle of Okinawa in 1945.
As we are walking up in a light drizzle, it doesn't seem like much, until you walk through a gate and see the colourful plaza.
In particular the rooftop dragons are stunning architectural additions.
Once again, we get the free use of slippers to tour around the inside of the castle.
Scale models show how the courtyards would typically be used in the old days
Placed strategically on top of a hill, you have great views over the Naha region.
From a very restored castle we made our next stop a very ruined castle. The Katsuren Castle Ruins sit on a steep hill close to the coast and with the Pacific Ocean on two sides, it is also called the "Ocean Gusuku". Just a few stone walls and foundations remain of the former castle, the 13th century castle was destroyed in 1458 by the Ryukyuan army. The site is included as one of the UNESCO World Heritage designated Castles of the Ryukyu Kingdom.
Katsuren Castle is most famous as the seat of Lord Amawari in the 15th century. According to legend, Amawari was a sickly child that got abandoned in the mountains to die. However, the child survived and grew into a powerful leader who defeated an oppressive lord and took over Katsuren Castle. Amawari's later attempt to attack Shuri Castle ended in failure and his death.
It's a bit of a steep hike along a variety of path types, but it certainly was worth it for the views.
In 2016, both ancient Roman currency and medieval Ottoman currency were excavated there. This was the first time that Roman coins were excavated in Japan.
Also unique to the castle was the several wells that had been dug and secret tunnels that allowed the rulers to escape if needed, or lovers to secretly meet up without being seen. We looked everywhere, but we never did see any of the giant snails we were warned not to touch. They were brought to Okinawa as a food source, but apparently they are quite disease ridden, and their parasite has caused death in children.
Oh, the views!
From Katsuren castle you had great views of the Kaichu-Doro drive/bridge, that would be our next destination, at least to go look at it.
The 5km long Kaichu-Doro drive is a bridge dubbed as an inter-island highway because it connects Katsuren Peninsula on Okinawa Island with four nearby Islands. The highway provides tourists with access to Henza, Miyagi, Hamahiga and Ikei islands to sample delicious local seafood and enjoy the pristine beaches. If only it was a nicer day, we could really enjoy them.
From this beach location we convinced Yagi to drive North to Cape Manzamo. Manzamo was named by the king of the Ryukyu kingdom when he visited there in the beginning of the 18th century, translates to "a field for 10,000 people to sit".
Most famous for it's elephant shaped rock formation, the loop walk along the rugged seaside is quite spectacular.
A pretty nice day all around, even if Yagi didn't talk a lot, we learned a lot about life on Okinawa Island. He dropped us at American village, we paid his fee, and as is the culture didn't pay a tip... he was very happy.
The biggest tip is how not to anger your taxi driver.
Almost all of the taxis in Japan have automatically opening rear doors, if you try to open it yourself they get mad. Apparently they were implemented by most taxis during the Olympics as a representation of hospitality, it could save time, be a courtesy for passengers who had difficulty opening the doors, or help those who forgot to close them. Realistically they were implemented as a safety measure so passengers knew they had to get in the back seat, not up front with the driver.
Taxis in Japan are not cheap, and there is Uber/Lyft type options but the prices are very similar. Buses, subways and trains are the most affordable way to get around the cities.
After all that driving around and walking, we bee-lined for the Conveyor Belt sushi restaurant.
We didn't have to wait long and we are seated at a counter, while in front of us a continuous stream of assorted sushi roll by on little plates. If you see one you like, you take the plate, and pay at the end of the meal based on the plates you took. Each plate is colour coded to indicate the price for that particular sushi choice. Our seats allowed us to watch the chef making plate after plate of different sushi.
If you have trouble identifying the items, there is a touchscreen in front of you that allows you to look up what items are what, although we couldn't figure out some of the items. The screen also allows you to order something special if you want it. Like, if you really wanted "Salmon parent & child", aka Salmon and roe.
We were starting to fill up, and just then some desserts go by, a bowl full of pastry/Cream puffs... it was a sign. We finished at 16 plates, the girl comes over with a wand and waves it over our plates and gives us the bill. Pretty cheap, pretty tasty, very full.
February 12
On our last morning in Okinawa we sat on our deck and watched as one fighter jet after another flew past. Maybe coming from some North Korean conflict drills and heading back to the Air Force base.
Unlike our debacle of transportation from the airport, transportation at mid-day to the airport was easy, we rolled our bags to the curb, and an Airport Limo Bus picked us up. Even better it had a set rate, so we didn't have to worry about not having enough coins to pay.
Since it's already spring in Okinawa, the airport is full of beautiful orchids.
Our Skymark flight back to Tokyo should have been a breeze, we got our seats together, and we are about to taxi off to the runway. Suddenly their is a Japanese announcement and then the Flight Hostess has to come tell us non-Japanese speakers that we have to undo our seatbelts. Apparently the Plane forgot to refuel, so we were slightly delayed. Who knew you can't wear a seatbelt while a plane is fueling?
