JAPAN 2019

A part of Japan that has always stuck in my head is Nagano, not because it was the host city for the 1998 Olympics, but because of an area nearby that has these adorable Snow Monkeys. So our next destination is Nagano.

I'm going to start this section with a Tip, one that was crucial to moving around the country. As a foreigner looking to travel to Japan, you can purchase a JR pass (Japan Rail). It gives you the ability to board and reserve any train that is part of the vast Japan Rail network. It has to be purchased before you arrive in Japan, and can save you a lot of money if you are planning to move around like we were going to do.

You designate a start date for your pass (ours would be this morning for the train to Nagano), and then you can get a 7 day, 14 day or 21 day pass depending on how long you are staying. We chose a 14 day pass, as it lined up with the train trips we planned to do. For trains that need a reservation you just go into the ticket office, show the pass and tell them what train you want. For trains that don't need a reservation you just show the guard at the gates your pass and walk on to the train. There is no cost beyond the initial pass purchase.

Added free bonus for us, the JR Pass can also be used for tourist buses and ferries in certain cities around Japan.

Nagano

When we arrived at Nagano station we had heard it's a bit of an uphill hike, so we loaded our luggage into a Taxi to Matsuya Ryokan (pronounced Yokan). Ryokan's are traditional Japanese lodgings, and give you a real taste for the Japanese culture. Ours was run by a family who had this Ryokan for 3 generations over 150 years, and it was located right on the grounds of the Zenko-ji temple. Apparently this was the first site of the temple.

The room was simple, with Tatami mats, a low table in the center, and paper window coverings and sliding doors. It also had modern amenities, like a small TV, WiFi and a super modern toilet!

Grandma and Grandpa don't speak much english at all, but between dad and one of the maids, we get to our room, figure out to take our shoes off, and that there is separate bathroom slippers from room slippers. The view out the windows is back alley awesome!

Once we were settled in, we headed out to the street that leads directly in to the Zenki-ji temple.

Our first stop was for a steamed bun with sweet Red Bean paste inside... our first real street meat experience.

From silly cartoonish characters to hand crafted works of art, you just never know what you'll see next.

You enter Zenko-ji temple through the Niomon gate, with its two Nio guards, they were impressive but undergoing some restoration. The Buddhist temple was built in the 7th century. Nagano was originally a town built around the temple. The one thing that sticks with me about entering the grounds, is the crosswalk music that plays in the intersection outside the gates... it must drive the locals crazy.

The Japanese definitely have a thing with red hats and scarves on their statues.

The snow covered trees, buildings and statues definitely added to the overall image of this area, such a contrast to the big city of Tokyo.

Workers removing snow and tying up branches to protect the natural bonsai trees

After wandering the snowy grounds of Zenko-ji, we explored the other areas of Nagano, wandering up and down streets to see what we would find. Aside from the temple area, it was dead on a Sunday. There was some unique looking Pagodas on the hillside behind the temple, but it was too slushy and we were too tired to do that hike.

It was the little things that made this town unique, simple tags hanging from a tree, or hidden dragons, it was just fun to explore. Of course I had to explore the Ninja store, practice my Ninja skills, and with the first shot I took out a target with a throwing star, and won our first Christmas Tree ornament... a Ninja Star for our infamous travel tree.

Scattered around the city is fun little reminders of the 1998 Nagano Winter Olympics.

Hidden down an alley is what I can only guess is a school or Ninja training facility.

As a matter of fact, not being able to read many of the signs, it makes me wonder what many of these buildings are.

As almost everything in town was closed, we ending up having food at the most Japanese McDonalds type restaurant we could find... Mos Burger for chicken strips with Teriyaki dipping sauce. Walking back to our Ryokan with burned tongues and then watching this guy making fresh Soba noodles right next to our place, I think we made a mistake.

We headed back out at 7:30, and everything is closed in our area, not just closed, but store fronts are shuddered, and the entire area including the temple is a ghost town. which made it very interesting to wander around in the snow.

The Yayoiza Restaurant was the only shop open. Their Mushi udon was delicious, so much better than our afternoon snack at MosDonalds.

When we got back in our room, the maid came in, moved the table and made up our futon beds, as soon as she left we found two more futons in the closet, and double stacked our beds. These old bones aren't used to sleeping on the floor anymore, but at least we get these funky traditional Japanese pajamas to wear around the place..

January 28

In the morning, a quiet knock at our door meant it was time for a traditional Japanese-style breakfast. This was not a Bacon and Eggs type breakfast, complete with Miso soup, assorted seafood, and a few things we didn't recognize. There was a tamago sushi (omelette), a half boiled egg, some kind of strawberry yogurt drink, and orange slices that reminded us of a regular breakfast, we certainly didn't leave hungry.

After breakfast our host ordered us a taxi to Nagano station, where we caught the Bus to Jigokudani Yaen-Koen aka the wild Snow Monkey hot springs. Because of the very steep cliffs and the steam coming off the springs ancient people called this valley 'Jigokudani (Hell valley)'. It is buried in snow almost one third of the year, and with natural hot springs to keep warm, it is a paradise that draws the monkeys from the surrounding hills. It was established as a protected park in 1964.

It's a bit of a trek to the park, and a pretty good 2 km hike from the parking area to the springs, but the natural beauty here was so worth it.

As we work our way along the trail, you can see signs of monkeys with prints in the snow, and just as we are wondering whether we will see very many monkeys, they are all around us. Not just on the hillsides and in the spring waters, but actually running right past us. At one point I am face to face with a big monkey, apparently I am on his trail, and I better get out of his way. I didn't hesitate to move.

The Japanese macaques, well known as snow monkeys, inhabit all parts of Japan except Hokkaido and Okinawa.

They are just so damn cute, huddling together, hugging and grooming each other.

At the center of the park area is the hot spring pool, a man made collection pool of the warm waters. It was created away from the actual springs as the water was becoming a toxic problem due to monkey poop.

Although it looks peaceful and serene, there is an aspect of tourist madness surrounding the main pool. There was one curious little monkey who kept grabbing at peoples cameras and pockets, particularly funny was the oblivious photographers who didn't even notice the interaction they were having and thought it was their family members or other tourists.

It was an extraordinary day to spend some time with these wild creatures that tolerated us in their territory, but it was time to head back down the mountain. Further along the trail, one last macaque is posing for some more photos.

We took some time to have some tempura and ramen noodle soup before boarding our bus back to Nagano.

We decided to take the Bus from Nagano station to our Ryokan, it took almost the same amount of time and cost us 150 ¥ instead of the 1110 ¥ we paid for the taxi.

Tonight was a traditional kaiseki cuisine dinner at our ryokan, similar to the meal we had with Ray, it was a lot of small dishes of assorted foods. So tasty, and although it doesn't look like much, we are stuffed at the end. Perhaps that was because new small dishes kept getting brought in as we ate.

One of the most common questions I hear online is "what apps are most useful to you when traveling?". That changes a lot depending on where you are going, and what kind of connectivity you might have as you are traveling. Having a pocket WiFi means you have needed information at your fingertips whenever you need it.

The Apps I used the most start with the basics...

1) Google Translate... three variations; text entry for English to Japanese, Conversation, to record and translate phrases between two people, and the camera feature to translate Japanese characters on the fly.

2) Google Maps... to figure out where we are and find nearby locations, and to determine what local transit might be best to get to our next destination.

3) either Hyperdia or Navitime to determine what train to take to the next city, when it leaves and what track it leaves from.

January 29

At 6:00am we are woken up by the sound of shoveling snow. Another traditional Japanese breakfast, and we are loading our luggage on the bus for another day of travel in the snow. Before we leave the family hosts at Matsuya ryokan all have to say goodbye, and the grandmother gives us each an orange for our journey. I returned the favour and gave her a gold Canada pin, she seemed to really like it, both her and Grandpa repeating "Canada, Canada", and she goes and gets a lacquer plate to give to Norine, just had to one up us.

We decided to do a little side trip before heading to Kanazawa, so we put our luggage in lockers at Nagano station and take the Shinano express train to Matsumoto. Matsumoto is a mountain city on Japan's main island. It’s known for Matsumoto Castle, a 16th-century stronghold nicknamed "Crow Castle" for its distinctive black walls.

Our timing was perfect, just as we walk past a colourful egg statue, it opens up and starts playing a song complete with marionette style band members. It's a giant Karakuri clock, and only opens at the top of each hour... the fact we walked by it was a complete fluke.

Matsumoto's main castle keep and its smaller, second donjon were built from 1592 to 1614. Both these structures were well-fortified as peace was not yet fully achieved at the time. In 1635, when military threats had ceased, a third, barely defended turret and another for moon viewing were added to the castle.

A little different than other shrines and castles we have seen, the grounds are wandered by Ninjas and shoguns.

After removing our shoes, we are able to explore the inside of the castle, with it's steep staircases, drop gates and weapons, it's very dangerous to attackers, and apparently visitors..