PORTUGAL 2025
Madeira
One of two Portuguese island groups, Madeira is the southernmost Islands off the coast of Morroco. (The other is the Azores)
March 15
In the morning we headed to the airport for our Madeira flight.
Our last stop in Portugal is the island of Madeira… off the coast of Morocco.
The airport is considered one of the most peculiarly perilous airports in the world due to its location and its runway construction. Pilots must undergo additional training to land at the airport. The airport's runway is a tabletop runway, which means there are steep dropoffs at either end of the runway - at one end the runway drops off just before a motorway that snakes around the runway end, and at the other end the runway it drops off a cliff. The runway is also unique in the fact that at the beginning of Runway 23, the runway is placed on a platform supported by pillars, similar to a beam bridge.
The airport is named after footballer and Madeira native Cristiano Ronaldo. During its renaming ceremony in 2017, the airport drew media notoriety for an infamous bust of Ronaldo unveiled at the ceremony, it has now been replaced.
We picked up our rental car, and after getting one of the staff to switch the information/media screen over to English we were off. You drive across the highway underneath the airport, and then drive down into Funchal. It's narrow and steep streets, there is probably an easier way, but that's how Google Maps sent me. And Google Maps had more fun...
Turns out that the Sé Boutique Hotel is on a pedestrian Street, but Google Maps didn't care, and sent me down weird cobble stone streets to right in front of the hotel. The hotel deskman tells me that we will get ticketed for driving there, and should unload our bags quickly, and drive a few blocks away to a parkade. To do that I had to drive backwards up a narrow pedestrian street to turn around and exit the pedestrian area. We parked the car, and headed back to the hotel to check in.
One of the features of the SBH hotel is a rooftop patio with a bar and mazing views over the city and the Sé which it is named after. We had some snacks and complimentary drinks on the rooftop patio and then wandered to the Cathedral.
The Sé Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Assunção (Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption) in Funchal is a late fifteenth-century cathedral that is one of the few structures that survived virtually intact since the early period of colonization of Madeira. The project was initiated in 1486, but it wasn't until 1508 that the church walls were complete, and Funchal was elevated to city status.
After visiting the Sé Cathedral, we spent some time wandering the streets, down to the waterfront, and back up to the main square.
Palácio de São Lourenço is a complex originally with the dual function of fortification and palace, considered to be the best and most imposing examples of civil and military architecture on the island of Madeira. It comprises the Fortress of São Lourenço, begun in the first half of the 16th century and completed during the Philippine Dynasty , and the Palace itself, including the halls on the main floor dating from the last quarter of the 18th century and the interior gardens. Of course it was closed while we were there.
There's a mix of literal garbage art, and unique old town squares.
Igreja do Colégio dos Jesuítas (the Church of the Jesuit College) was built in the 17th century by the Society of Jesus, the temple marks the transition in the country from the Mannerist style to the Baroque, marked by great decorative ostentation. It constituted the largest building complex in the city until the 19th century
One of 2 restaurants attached to our hotel is Cosi Soozi, which serves Italian cuisine. It was delicious, and a 10 second walk, which made it even better
March 16
The day started very wet, so we grabbed our umbrellas and headed over to a famous street in Funchal old town.
Rua de Santa Maria is a narrow street famous for its doors, such a unique art gallery. The Painted Doors Project was started in 2010, and has resulted in over 200 painted doors in this area... Prepare to Scroll.
The Capela do Corpo Santo is a chapel dedicated to the patron saint of fishermen. Considered one of the oldest temples on the island, the Capela do Corpo Santo was built at the end of the 15th century by fishermen from Funchal. The chapel also served as an infirmary for local fishermen and their families, providing humanitarian aid, loaning money and helping the membership's widows.
The Teleferico was closed due to the winds, so we jumped in the car and drove to more wind and more sunshine… the most Southern point of Madeira, the most Eastern point of the Island, the most Northern point on the island, and one of the highest cliffs in the world
To say the roads were windy, would be an understatement.
Miradouro do Cristo Rei is at the Southernmost point on the island. The Cristo Rei Viewpoint owes its name to the statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus built on this spot. It is an imposing sculpture of Jesus Christ, with open arms, facing the ocean. Built in 1927, this statue is built at the top of a coastal ravine.
From the Southernmost point, we went as far East as you could go on the Island. PR 8 - Vereda da Ponta de São Lourençois one of many walking trails in Madeira, this one takes you to some amazing lookouts over the end of the island. Apparently this hike was closed the next few days due to the danger of the high winds, I can believe that.
The Ponta de São Jorge Lighthouse sitting on the Northernmost point of the island only came into operation in 1959, but this lighthouse was designed as early as 1948.
Our lunch stop in Boa Ventura was such a nice break, although called a Snack Bar, it was decent food with amazing views.
As we headed down to the North Coast of the Island, and the town of Seixal, we started experiencing more and more of the 150 tunnels that make up the island highway system.
Igreja Matriz do Seixal is a church, it is old...it was closed.
The natural pools here were very cool, but we didn't bring our suits with us.
Did I mention this island has more than 150 tunnels? From the tunnels at Sea level, we made the climb over the top of the island to Cabo Girão, a cliff based lookout over the Southern side of the island. It is 589 Meters high, and apparently has no functioning bathroom, even though they charge you to access one of the highest cliffs in the world.
After parking the car, and getting back to the hotel to pee, we went to a nice little Italian restaurant called La Pasta. Portuguese Pizzas, all while serenaded by a Portuguese guitarist playing American songs.
March 17
The Teleferico was working this morning so we took the cable car up 560 meters of elevation to Monte. It may have been quicker walking, as you had a long line to buy tickets, then a separate long line to actually board one of the small gondolas.
No German salutes allowed on the Teleferico
Monte overlooks the city of Funchal way below. In 1850, the residents created an innovative method of moving rapidly between Monte and Funchal. These carros de cesto (literally, English: basket cars), baskets with seats on wooden skis which were slid the inclined streets of Monte, guided by two pilots from behind. The basket cars began operating in the late 19th century to descend the three kilometres to Funchal. We watched the Toboggans slide down the steep roads and would have done it if not for the over 2 hour lineup.
When they reach the bottom, the baskets are loaded up on a truck, and everyone is driven up to the top to slide down again.
From the toboggan races and up some stairs, is the historic Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte.
In 1470, a chapel was built on this site by the first man born in Madeira. In 1741, the first stone of the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte was laid. A few months after the completion of the church, the Church was seriously damaged by an earthquake in 1748. It was rebuilt and consecrated in 1818. The church is famous for containing the remains of Charles I of Austria, he was the last Emperor of Austria from 1916 to 1918 , also King of Hungary and Croatia as Charles IV and King of Bohemia as Charles III . He became a political exile following the dissolution of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. He died at the age of 34 on Madeira Island.
A short distance from the church is the Monte Palace Madeira Tropical Gardens.
Monte Palace has a long and illustrious history, dating back to the 18th century when the British Consul transformed the property around Monte Church into a leisure estate, which later became known as 'Quinta do Prazer'. In 1897 the property was transformed into a hotel, inspired by the palaces on the banks of the River Rhine. The Monte Palace Madeira Garden now displays some 100,000 plant species from all over the world over 70,000 m² on a long slope of land..
Along one of the pathways are tiled displays showing the history of Portugal.
The former Monte Palace Hotel.
Santana houses are the traditional homes of the island dating back to the 16th century. Constructed with sloping triangular rooftops, and protected with straw. These were mainly rural homes, used by local farmers, during the settlement of the island, with white-painted walls, red doors and windows with blue trim. Most of the surviving buildings are tourist attractions, and maintained
Turns out the Teleferico was shut down in the afternoon due to high winds and we had to take a Bolt (like Uber) back down, but not until we had a nice lunch overlooking the city of Funchal below.
We were slowed down a little on the way back as we had to wait for the "basket cars" to get out of the way.
Our first stop back at sea level was at Mercado Dos Lavradores, a little shopping before heading back to our hotel.
We spent some quality time resting our feet on the rooftop patio and watching the sun go down over the hillside we spent the day on.
Our hotel has a small indoor pool. and you can book it for your own usage, we had 1 hour of our own private pool time.
After a nice relaxing evening we made an early night of it.
March 18
Today was road trip day, we pulled the car out of the parking lot and made plans to cover the west end of the island that we didn't see on our first day exploring. The first stop of the day was the beach town of Calheta. The beach was closed.
Our second stop was the Ponta do Pargo Lighthouse established here in 1922. Situated on the westernmost tip of the island of Madeira, the Lighthouse Viewpoint offers a panoramic view over the Atlantic Ocean.
The third stop was Achadas da Cruz, the highlight here is the Teleférico, one of the steepest cable cars in the world. From the viewpoint it takes you down a 450 meter drop at a 98% incline. Guess what, it was closed due to the weather!
The fourth stop was the Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena on the hilltop above Porto Moniz. We were just happy it was open.
In 1798, the Church of Santa Maria Madalena underwent a series of restorations and additions giving the church it's current look. Considered one of the oldest churches in the north of Madeira Island.
The fifth stop was Porto Moniz, famous for it's multiple natural swimming pools, luckily we planned and brought our swim suits today. The first one we stopped at, Piscinas Naturais do Aquário was closed for the season. The natural saltwater pools were formed by volcanic rocks.
The second pools, Piscinas Naturais do Porto Moniz were a brief walk away, just as we arrive, they are putting up a sign, that the pools are now closing due to the weather... I guess the giant waves crashing over the sides of the pool were an indication.
After missing out on swimming in both natural pools today, we had lunch on a patio cafe overlooking the crashing waves. Luckily we sat inside as umbrellas and signs were being blown all over on the outdoor patio.
The road back to Funchal goes over the middle of the island, past some interesting Levadas (trails), most of the Levadas are closed. The mountain crossing "highways" are narrow roads with not much traffic aside from cows.
Our sixth and final stop was the trails at Parque Florestal (the Fanal Forest). The Fanal Forest is an ancient laurel grove and is one of the last remaining examples of Europe's original rainforest, which dates back thousands of years and has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its biodiversity and special characteristics. Often shrouded in fog, the twisted branches of the Ocotea Foetens trees come together creating a fairytale scene. Just our luck, there was no fog when we arrived, and the rain was creating a mud bog making the trails an ugly mess.So we just took some time to wander amongst the twisted Laurels in the rain.
Back on the road, and more cows, and now that we have left the Fanal Forest, the fog rolled in.
The fog finally lifted as we were coming down the other side of the island, and we arrived back to our room surprised by a gift of champagne from the hotel, and I went and picked up Take-Out pizza to celebrate our last night in Madeira.
March 19
The next morning we woke up to pouring rain again, and I had to sludge my way to the parkade and pick up the car. Luckily I was able to wind my way into the pedestrian streets before they were closed, and we didn't have to lug our suitcases in the rain.
There was no-one at the rent-a-car dropoff, and there was no key drop there either, so I had to sneak into the car rental area of the airport and drop the keys at the locked up desk. We still had plenty of time to clear security and board our flight back to Lisbon.